Arancini are Sicilian street food and one of the more involved things in this recipe collection. You make a ragu, you cook saffron rice, you cool both completely, you form them by hand, you fry them in batches. None of it is difficult. All of it takes time.
The Messina tradition uses a cone shape rather than the round ball of Palermo. We make it either way depending on the day. The saffron rice is the part that holds the whole thing together: cooked in broth until each grain is separate and dry enough to press into shape.
We finish ours with Gusta Chopped Pistachios scattered on top. It is a natural Sicilian move, and the crunch against the fried crust is the right last note.
Set servings and units first. You can change them anytime.
Make the ragu filling first: heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a pot over medium heat. Saute the finely diced onion, carrot, and celery for 8 minutes. Add the ground beef, raise the heat, and cook until browned, breaking it up with a spoon. Stir in the tomato passata. Simmer uncovered over low heat for 30 minutes until the ragu is very thick and nearly dry. Fold in the peas with 5 minutes to go. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a shallow dish and cool completely, at least 1 hour.
Cook the rice: bring the broth to a simmer in a wide saucepan. Dissolve the saffron in a ladleful of hot broth and stir it back in. Add the rice and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until all the broth is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 18 minutes. The texture should be slightly sticky and dry, not soupy. Remove from heat, stir in the butter, and season with salt. Spread on a large baking sheet and cool completely, at least 45 minutes.
Make the batter: whisk the flour, a pinch of salt, and the cold water together until smooth, like thin pancake batter.
Shape each arancino: cup a large handful of cold rice in your palm and press it into a hollow cone shape with your thumb. Place one heaped tablespoon of cold ragu and a cube of caciocavallo in the hollow. Seal with a small amount of additional rice, pressing firmly around the seam to form a smooth, compact cone. Repeat to make 8 arancini.
Dip each arancino fully in the batter, letting the excess drip off. Roll in the breadcrumbs, pressing gently so they adhere evenly on all sides.
Pour sunflower oil into a deep pot to a depth of 3 in and heat to 350 degrees F. Fry the arancini in batches of two or three, turning with tongs, for 6 to 7 minutes until deeply golden all over. Drain on a wire rack lined with paper towels.
Scatter Gusta Chopped Pistachios over the arancini just before serving.
You made Arancini. Time to eat.
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Cold rice and cold ragu are the only way to form arancini that hold together in the oil. If either is still warm, the shape falls apart. Plan for the cooling time, or start the rice the day before.
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