The dish comes from Amatrice, a town in the mountains east of Rome. The original version predates tomatoes. What it has always had is guanciale, the cured pork cheek, rendered until the fat is translucent and the edges are just beginning to crisp. That is the foundation.
The tomato came later, and the combination works because the fat from the guanciale carries the flavor of the tomatoes into the sauce rather than sitting on top of it. The finish is Pecorino Romano, sharp and salty, which tightens everything.
Do not substitute pancetta or bacon. Guanciale has a different fat-to-meat ratio and a different cure, and the dish depends on how that fat renders.
Set servings and units first. You can change them anytime.
Cut the guanciale into strips about 1/2 in wide. Place in a cold wide pan with no oil added. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the edges turn lightly golden, 8 to 10 minutes.
Pour in the white wine and let it bubble until fully evaporated, about 1 minute. Add the dried chili if using.
Crush the canned tomatoes into the pan with your hands. Season lightly with salt. Simmer uncovered over medium-low heat until the sauce thickens, about 15 minutes.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti for 9 minutes.
Drain the spaghetti, reserving 1 cup of pasta water. Transfer to the sauce. Toss over medium heat for 1 minute, adding pasta water as needed.
Remove from heat. Add the Pecorino Romano and toss until melted. Finish with black pepper and serve.
You made Spaghetti all'Amatriciana. Time to eat.
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Start the guanciale in a cold pan. If you add it to a hot pan, the outside chars before the fat has a chance to render. A cold start gives you translucent, silky fat and lightly crisped edges, which is the texture you are after.
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